Daisy said she did most of her training on the DW rather than the teeter or AF. She said the obstacle should be independent, not dependent on your running to make the dog go faster. She restrains the dog five feet behind the DW and sends dog ahead on his own. She throws a toy ahead. Initially she uses food as a reward on the flat (manners minder).
She starts on a runner carpet, moves to a plank on a 8 ", to12, to 16" table. She keeps treats in her pocket so dog comes back. She works 10 or 12 repetitions 3 or 4 times a day. She begins to move the manners minder off to the side. The dogs begin to bail before the yellow she shapes them back to staying in the yellow.
She adds her own motion and stops to get her dog to ignore her motion. She'll add a tunnel after the DW and then the MM, then Weaves, then tire, then tire, then jump after DW, then MM. Then she fades the Manners Minder. When working with a toy, you fade the toy in the same way.
Daisy said she doesn't encourage speed right away. What you want to reward is the right gait. Don't reward intermediate stages for very long before moving up-get 80% success otherwise you are rewarding intermediate stages much more than the final behavior you want.
Whether you do running or 2 on 2 off dog needs to do DW independently. 2 on 2 off train the release. Only release when two feet are in the dirt.
Work sit stay and 2 0n 2 off with a toy. Wiggle the toy, pretend to throw it, drop it, then throw. Be prepared to pull toy away if dog breaks.
If you avoid mistakes training isn't complete. Know what mistakes need to be made. Prepare for them.
Daisy suggested Lanny Bassham for mental management.
Most of the dogs were working running DW. One dog worked on a plank on a 16" table, sending the dog to a toy with someone prepared to pull the toy if the run wasn't good. The dog above was, of course, working 2 on 2 off. She worked on shaping the dog to get back onto the contact by himself.
In the afternoon, during the handling portion of the seminar Daisy said don't say here, here, or call the dogs name a whole lot. Make the dogs watch to see what to do. They should not rely on hearing.
Motion cues need to happen over time so dogs can see them coming. There should be no surprises for the dog.